Ambiance: I go down to my basement and think about the guest who'll be here in an hour. He likes red meat. I prepared a special piece for him from Gilles the butcher. I grasp the neck of a bottle without a second thought. Pairing: A strip of beef seared on the plancha with a tiny drizzle of olive oil, freshly ground pepper and coarse Gruissan salt a few sliced courgettes around it, and in five minutes it is ready. Life is simple sometimes. Recommendation: Choose a mature vintage for dishes with sauce and a younger one for grilled dishes. The last vintage can do both. Serve only at 17°.